Secret Eater: Royal Sovereign

THE PLACE: Of all the pubs we didn’t go to on our big roast-fest last issue, probably the place that got the most props was the Royal Sovereign. Placed as it is on ‘Restaurant Road’ it really needs to be good at grub to stop people wandering over to China China and the like. Bowling up on the off-chance at well past 9pm, we’re impressed to discover food served until ten. The place is pack and cosy with a really nice atmosphere. We’ve got high hopes.

THE MEAL:
Despite the number of eateries amongst its neighbours, there aren’t many places to enjoy British cuisine meaning the Sov can stake its territory with an ever-changing menu of classics with a twist. We grab a ‘light bite’ of ribs to go with the meal and it’s immense. A mountain of meat, which falls off the bone when we pick it up, it’s more Indian than Chinese coming with a coriander and satay-like creamy, nutty sauce. The big portions – especially at the money – are echoed in the main dishes. The belly pork is not just chunky but contains no fat – none at all. It’s comes with soft bubble, crisp parsnip chips and braised red cabbage and rich apple gravy. Even more impressive is the lentil shepherd’s pie with a tender lamb shank where the shepherd would usually be. Proper Irish peasant food, it comes with deliciously boiled bacon and savoy cabbage, moist and tasty. Let's just say we needed a doggy bag.

VERDICT: Clearly SOURCE readers really know their stuff; this place is amazing. It’s not the cheapest pub grub but the prices are reasonable and the food is great. The Royal Sovereign is up there not just with the best places to eat on Preston Street but also with the top of the gastro-pubs in Brighton like the Yeoman and the Forager.

WERE WE SUSSED: We didn’t do anything unusual – we even had a good excuse for carrying a massive camera – but the staff were incredibly, almost suspiciously, attentive. We think that they’re genuine though, which makes the Sov just about the best service in town. Sussed? Probably not.

Royal Sovereign
66 Preston Street (01273) 323289
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