Secret Eater: Good Friends

THE PLACE
We have a rule when visiting Chinese restaurants – only eat there if Chinese people are eating there. It worked out pretty well for us when we discovered the old China China and we noticed a few doors down Preston Street, the ratio of west to Far East was even more in favour of the latter. Good Friends is an unfussy restaurant – another good sign – and as we settle down at our table we guess it’s about three-quarters made up of indigenous diners.

THE MEAL
When we are given the menus we understand why. One is a fairly standard anglicised version of the cuisine while the other goes wildly into local delicacies. Our eyes are drawn to stewed duckwebs with fish lips, and preserved vegetables with intestines and pig stomach, but we have to admit that we chicken out (there are also chickens’ feet by the way). In our defence we’re very hungry and Good Friends edges towards the pricier end of the spectrum. Instead, the hot and sour soup (£4.50) makes our eyes water at first sip, but reveals a lovely lemongrass edge while being ungloopy. Into the mains and the scallops with ginger and spring onion (£9.50) are delicate enough for us to enjoy the onion, and come loaded with scallops. Similarly tasty and filling is the huge duck breast with orange sauce (£8.50) – like sweet and sour without the vinegariness that can ruin that dish. The fried rice (£3.50) is great – a portion for two and not oily at all – while the fried noodles (£3.50) holds its own against them. Intense isn’t a word that you’d use about crispy seaweed (£4) but this was so salty and sweet half a portion was enough. In fact getting a couple of dishes and sharing among the table is the way to go – preferably with good friends.

THE VERDICT
Good Friends is good, and then a bit more on top. The flavours are easy to separate in every dish, it feels much healthier than a takeaway and the portions are more than generous. Next time we’re heading into the Chinese menu – that’s where the place is sure to come alive.

WERE WE SUSSED
No way, we had to borrow a little camera for the night and we might as well have been spies we were so subtle.

Good Friends
24-25 Preston Street (01273 774193)
Open 12-11.30pm daily