Secret Eater: Open House

THE PLACE
The rule is that town centre bars are hip and as you head out of the city pubs get more relaxed. Thank God for Brighton then, and thank him for the Open House, a boozer that combines the best of both worlds. Loads of rooms to hide away in, a massive beer garden, great art on the walls and loads of places to sit – is there anything that it hasn’t got nailed? Food? Well, let’s find out.

THE MEAL
The menu is a good start, covering lots of bases without the clutter of complication. We start with a sizeable bowl of root vegetable chips (£3.95) – parsnip and sweet potato star – that are tasty and crispy on the outside, but a little crunchy in the middle. The anti pasta plate (£4.95) contains huge olives, good quality meat, a big chunk of feta, crusty bruchetta. A healthy dash of harissa is a surprise but an interesting twist. The lamb cutlets with green beans and sautéed potatoes (£11.95) definitely have the former as the main event. Simple and not overly dressed, we’d have liked the fat to be crispy, but we’re heading to an early grave. Pub fave, steak came marinated in ale which gave us a surprise, but really worked, especially with massive chunky chips. A tastebud double take but it really worked. In dessert land the sticky toffee pudding was hearty while the rum truffle torte was heart attack inducing – rich and huge (both £4.50).

VERDICT
Good, definitely good, but could just do with a touch more oven time in places for our tastes. The ingredients were all quality and they were put together in a simple, not fussy way that all pubs should. We spent a bit of money overall but left a little too full, so no VFM issues here. Another Open House success.

WERE WE SUSED
Not a chance. We forgot to pick up our cutlery and the waiter said he’d bring some out to us. He forgot too. Not the sign of someone who knows they’re being judged.

Open House
146 Springfield Road (01273) 880102
Mon-Sat, noon-4pm, 5pm-9pm; Sun, noon-5pm